Food at last! Here we are at the tiny La Casa del Abuelo (grandfather's house) watching the proprietor dish up an order of gambas ajillos, or garlic shrimp. The recipe is deceptively simple: shrimp, olive oil, some herbs, garlic, a little crushed red pepper put in a ramekin and flash fried for a minute. Somehow, it's the most delicious thing on the planet and impossible to reproduce.

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